Reflection

The fashion show ran smoothly I feel that my collection worked well on the models. It worked well as a hole collection and I was pleased with the outcome. During the fashion show I took responsibility in dressing the models and working to a time plan. I received good feedback from members of the audience as they were impressed with how I had hand painted my collection. The fashion show was well received in general by the audience. The planning of the fashion show went well. I think that there should have been less time for breaks and we should have just got on with dressing the models.

I feel that the price of each garment is well priced. They would retail at about £75.00 each, which would cover all costings and manufacture time. In existing high street stores such as House Of Fraser, Debenhams and Next plain linen dresses retail for between £30-£80. Considering my dresses are hand painted and have embellishments this is a good price for the high street which is my chosen market level.

I feel that my collection will work for my target market and also a target market for older ladies because after the fashion show I had a few older ladies come up and tell me they would wear my dresses.

My collection references current summer trends and therefore it will appeal to current buyers.

cad drawings

Ralph Pink Tutorial Bodice Block.

This is my bodice blocks which I created following the Ralph Pink tutorial.
I found this exercise very challenging as I am not used to the measurements and mathematic side to Illustrator and I especially found the part where he stopped speaking challenging. I am pleased with the outcome of my work and now I am able to create a bodice block to other peoples sizes not only mine. I have used new tools such as:

• The measuring tool
• The scissor tool

Fashion Show Poster

This is my fashion show poster I created on Illustrator for the fashion show.

Selection and Adjustments

For this exercise I needed an image of a bird, I had to use photoshop CS3. I had to draw around the outline of the bird using the magnetic lasso tool. I then changed the contrast and brightness of the bird using the sliders to create my desired effect. I then changed the size of thE bird so that it would fit on to previous work I had already completed for CAD. I then copied the birds and changed the sizes of each one until I was happy with the amount I had. I enjoyed this exercise I had know trouble in completing it and I was pleased with the outcome.

Working With Illustrator and Photoshop

 For this exercise I needed to get an image of a background taken from the internet. I also needed a line drawing which I had already traced out in illustrator and also an image of a textured wall. I used photoshop CS3. I opened up my background image and then on another layer I opened up my line drawing I then placed it over the top of the background image. I then took the paint bucket tool and took colours from my background and clicked on areas in which I wanted to use the colour I had chosen. To change the texture of a coloured area of the background I felt was flat I had to apply a texture taken from an image.
 I found this exercise straight forward as I am more used to CAD and which tool creates which effect and I am pleased with the outcome.

Creating A Fashion Template Using CAD

On a Friday afternoon I have to spend a few hours on CAD. I had to create my own fashion template in order to do this, I had to follow instructions which were given to me on a handout. Here are the steps in which I had to take to complete this task:

• I had to upload a figure on to the desktop I was working on, I had to use a figure which you could see the whole body shape of.
• I used adobe illustrator and clicked on CMYK.
• I imported my visual from the desktop, I had to remember to tick the template box before pressing place I did this to insure that it was easier to trace around.
• I used the pen tool to trace around my template I zoomed in on the figures head and drew around the outline.
• After I traced the head I began to trace the figure.
• I then changed the colour of the figures hair
• After I had done all this my figure was complete and I had a fashion figure drawn for me without having to draw one and the benefits of creating a fashion figure on CAD is that I could used it more than once print out as many copies as I need which means it is not as time consuming, I could email to people and save it for another time. The bad points to using CAD is if your computer crashes you will not be able to get your work back also if you don't have access to a computer you won't be able to makes changes to your work.
  

Attaching Fringing

I bought fringing which was attached together in a 2m row. I decided the most effective method of attaching the fringing to the fabric was by sewing it to the right side of the fabric and then adding a retaining stitch.

Patterning and Manufacturing A Peplum For Toile Four.

• Step 1: I traced from the waist and the hip on the front and back dress patterns, including the darts.

• Step 2: I then cut right up to the end of the dart, leaving a small area attached, and then cut one side of the dart. I then took the dart out on both pattern pieces.

• Step 3: I then drew on 4 lines leaving roughly a 4cm gap in each one (not exact measurements). I cut up the lines, leaving a small area so that it was attached together still and repeated this process on the back pattern.

• Step 4: I then spread the pattern out evenly and made sure either side fit into a right angle. I then taped the pattern down and traced around it.

• Step 5: I then added a 1cm seam allowance to the new pattern and added all the correct markings.

• Step 6: I then had my patterns for my peplum complete and didn't need to add any adjustments.

Patterning and Manufacturing Toile Four

• Step 1: I used the dress patterns which I created for toile 2.

• Step 2: I traced around the dress patterns from toile 2 and added the darts and markings and a 1cm seam allowance.

• Step 3: I then measured from my waist to just below my knee which measured 69cm and shortened my dress pattern to that length.

• Step 4: I then made changes to the back of the dress. I made it so that it was v-neck at the back that started from the shoulders and carried on down to the waist line.

• Step 5: I slashed and spread under the arm hole, moved the paper over 1cm and taped it down . I taped it down so that it was more fitted and didn't have too much excess room.

• Step 6: I then cut out my pattern pieces. I cut out the front and back, and I cut out the waist so that the bodice and skirt of the dress were separate in order to attach my peplum. 

Difficult Area On Cheyenne Dress

I have designed the Cheyenne inspired dress to have cut outs on the back with shapes taken from my print. I didn't really know the best method in how to create this look so I began by:

• Cutting out two medium size pieces of calico and the shapes which were taken from my print.
• I then hand stitched the two pieces of calico into a triangle shape.
• I then placed each of the shapes on to the calico. I made each shape go smaller so that they would fit into the triangle.
• I hand stitched around each edge of the shapes which touched the calico so they were all attached.
• This method didn't go to plan and didn't look like a professional finish. I am going to try out another method and see if I can create a neater finish which fits in with the concept of the Cheyenne dress.

Painting My Print On To Calico

 I drew my design onto two pieces of calico but only faintly, so that the pencil lines weren't obvious. I then used a small fine paint brush and fabric paint and applied it to the faint print that I had drawn out on the calico. I have found that painting the print onto the fabric is extremely time consuming and it takes a lot of attention to detail. However, it does look professional and creates the right kind of mood and feel for the concept I am trying to convey. I also embroidered areas of the print which I had painted on using a chain stitch. The chain stitch makes areas of the print more prominent and it creates a more effective look. These are the methods in which I will be applying my print to the fabric.

Toile Diary Dress Two

• Step One: I retraced the dress pattern which I had created for toile one.

• Step Two: I then took in the shoulder strap 1 cm and made the neckline on the front and back panels straighter so I took them down about 2 mm.

• Step Three: I then cut out the pattern for my new toile and pinned them down to calico but before I cut out the pattern pieces in fabric, I realised the shoulder pieces didn't match the back panels of my dress and so I added a piece of paper. This added just under half a cm to the shoulder attachment so it fitted properly.

• Step Four: I then cut out the pattern pieces in calico and made sure I cut out a 1 cm seam allowance, adding notches so I could match them up ready for manufacturing.

• Step Five: I then added darts to my toile before I went ahead with completing the rest of my toile.

• Step Six: After I added darts into my toile, I attached the front panels to the back panels using a 1 cm seam allowance and basic stitch.

• Step Seven: I only sewed half way up the back panels of the dress when as I was attaching the back panels together due to the fact I was adding a concealed zip.

• Step Eight: I then added the concealed zip using a concealed zipper foot. However, the zip wasn't put in properly as I had attached it the wrong way around and so I then unpicked the zip and attached the zip in the correct way.

 I found toile two very simple to pattern and make the changes to. The manufacturing process was straightforward also but I had problems with attaching the zip. I am pleased with the outcome of toile two and there is not many changes to be made other than it needing to be taken in a few cm around the waist and bust area.

Unit 120 Sampling Lined Patch Pocket, Trouser Pocket and Fly Zip

I struggled with creating the fly zip as I found it really fiddly and complicated. I had to have help from my tutor to complete it.

I found that the lined patch pocket was really easy to manufacture because there weren't really a lot of pattern pieces and it was really straightforward.

I also found this trouser pocket really easy to manufacture and once I understood in which order each part of the pocket was to be sewn on, it became really straightforward.

Unit 120 Sampling Curves, Points, Seams and Zips

The pointy seams were easy to manufacture. They were very straightforward as long as I kept them tight and used my notches which I had made the whole way around.

Sample of curved seams: These were easy as the seams were smooth. I cut notches to help the fabric curve and it was really easy to control.

The bias binding sample was difficult to sew as I have not really done it before. The satin bias was quite slippy. 

Sample of a jean seam: This was simple to sew as it was really straightforward and I had no problem with it.

This is a sample of bias binding on a curved seam. I found it difficult to sew because it was hard trying to keep the fabric and the binding straight.