Unit 120 Sampling Lined Patch Pocket, Trouser Pocket and Fly Zip

I struggled with creating the fly zip as I found it really fiddly and complicated. I had to have help from my tutor to complete it.

I found that the lined patch pocket was really easy to manufacture because there weren't really a lot of pattern pieces and it was really straightforward.

I also found this trouser pocket really easy to manufacture and once I understood in which order each part of the pocket was to be sewn on, it became really straightforward.

Unit 120 Sampling Curves, Points, Seams and Zips

The pointy seams were easy to manufacture. They were very straightforward as long as I kept them tight and used my notches which I had made the whole way around.

Sample of curved seams: These were easy as the seams were smooth. I cut notches to help the fabric curve and it was really easy to control.

The bias binding sample was difficult to sew as I have not really done it before. The satin bias was quite slippy. 

Sample of a jean seam: This was simple to sew as it was really straightforward and I had no problem with it.

This is a sample of bias binding on a curved seam. I found it difficult to sew because it was hard trying to keep the fabric and the binding straight.

Trouser Unit 120

Step 1: I traced around a basic trouser block.

Step 2: I then measured the length and width of my leg and took in the measurements of the basic trouser block.

Step 3: I then got my tutor to look and check I had made the correct measurements. When I knew the measurements were correct, I went ahead and cut the pattern pieces out.

Step 4: I then made sure I had added a 1cm seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

Step 5: I placed the pattern pieces onto the calico, pinned them and cut them out.

Step 6: I then began to manufacture the trousers. I started by sewing the front and back legs together. I then sewed the crotch and in the inside legs front and back together making sure I was sticking to my 1cm seam allowance and using a basic stitch.

Step 7: I then sewed half way up the back of the trousers but I didn't sew them completely because I added a concealed zip using a concealed zipper foot and basic stitch.

Step 8: I tried the trousers on but they didn't fit how I wanted them to so I took them in by 2cm on both sides using the overlocker machine. This was so they were a tighter, more flattering fit on my leg.

Step 9: I created a wing shape and traced it out so I had two but I made one slightly smaller. I then added six or so darts to each one so that when it was to be manufactured it would have enough structure to create the effect of wings which is what I wanted.

Step 10: I cut the wing patterns out but I cut them out twice so I had a front and back. I also cut x2 interfacing.

Step 11: I then ironed on the interfacing to the front pattern pieces and sewed in the darts. I then stitched on the back pieces but I used the ruffling effect so that it would fit to the front and it would help create the structure. I then attached them to the waist on my trousers.

Step 12: I finished the wings off with a retaining row on the trousers so it looked professionally presented and hemmed the trousers by 1cm.

Video concept

I created a video based on my concept of Hippies and American Indians. The video is telling the story of an American Indian going to the festival, Woodstock, in 1969 and mixing in with Hippies. The music fits in with the video as Jimmy Hendrix was big in the 60s and a lot of the Hippies listened to his music and he also played at Woodstock.

Shape Development

The shapes have been taken from my design which I will be using as my print. I like the shapes created on figures 6,7,8,10 and 11. They create nice forms and silhouettes and would make good starting points for dress designs.  I could design, in depth, shape developments to further my ideas.

Embroidery From The Cheyenne Dress

My secondary research included looking at Cheyenne dresses and copying the embroidery detail. This detail inspired me to think about adding embroidery to my final collection. I also particularly like the tasselling effect which is incorporated into a majority of the Cheyenne dresses.

Sampling Fabric Paint

I produced this sample using fabric paint on calico. I pencilled on my design and painted with a fine brush. This was my first attempt using fabric paint and the sample doesn't meet the standard I would like to achieve. I would like to improve my skills and produce a more professional finish. However, I would still like to use this method in my final collection whilst also incorporating embroidery on to the fabric paint to create a textured finish.

Sampling Embroidery

I enjoy working with embroidery because I feel it is a strength of mine, stitching by hand. The techniques that I used were:

• Basic back stitch
• Cross stitch
• Blanket stitch
• Chain stitch

I am most likely to use chain stitch and blanket stitch as they have a better finish and would suit my garments more.

Plastic Stencilling

For this method I cut a stencil out of plastic using a scalpel. I found this method challenging because I was not able to see the plastic over the pattern and had difficulty seeing where I was actually cutting. The resulting stencil was flimsy and would break easily. I won't be using this method in my final collection for the above reasons.

Sampling Using A Stencilling Method

I want to create my own prints for my final collection. The first stencilling technique I tried was using plastic and a biro pen. I tried to create an embossed effect, almost like a print block. It was not successful. I don't feel this method will work for my final collection as it doesn't portray the print well and it is very time consuming
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Sampling Tie Dye

I created these samples using watered down fabric paint. I used a thick paint brush. For sample one, I mixed all the colours together with water. For sample two, I used water to blend the colours together. I painted lines to try to create different effects. I created sample three by bleeding the paint on to the fabric with the paint brush. Sample three was the most effective method.

Market Level

I have decided the market level for my collection will be high street. I am very high street orientated as a designer. I feel that high street will fit my collection and I will be able to manufacture the garments to the best of my ability. I am excited at the thought of creating my own prints for the collection.

Trends

My trend research includes:

• Tie dye
• Denim jackets
• Eccentric Bohemian
• Body con midi dresses 
• Denim shorts
• Cheyenne inspired dresses

These are all trends I like and would like to include in my final collection. These all reflect my concept which is stereotypical Hippie and American Indian Cheyenne dresses.