Well this was one of the most confusing tasks I have been given. The process of manufacturing a shirt is actually very difficult, due to the cuffs and collars. I found creating the shirt was very confusing as there are so many parts to put together and lots of measuring was involved and that is my weakest point. Although I did like the end result I felt very proud of the shirt I had created. Also, life is easier now as I can sew in a straight line so my work looks how it's suppose to. Here is a step by step guide on how to manufacture a shirt:
-Trace around shirt block- first draft.
- Pattern added 1.5 seam allowance to create pattern pieces. The pattern pieces I made were front shirt, back shirt, yoke and cuff.
- Traced out the sleeve, divide the sleeve into six sections and spread using slash and spread technique. Slashing and spreading will add volume to the sleeve to create a bishop sleeve.
- I find pattern cutting very challenging, this is due to my eye sight and not being able to see the pencil markings on white paper. Also I find maths very difficult.
- I laid all my pattern pieces onto my fabric. I made sure that the pattern pieces that were placed on the fold symbol were placed on the fold. I made sure all the pattern pieces were placed in the correct direction of the pattern.
- I couldn't fit the sleeve pattern onto the piece of fabric. I had to open up the fabric so that there was enough room. If I was working in industry this would not be practical because it would take up to much manufacturing time.
- Once all my pattern pieces were pinned on to my fabric, I then cut them all out. First of all I ironed on my interfacing to the button stand, folded it over 1.5cm and top stitched so it held in place.
- I then got the back piece of my shirt and the yoke and created a box pleat in the back of the shirt and sewed it together.
- I then ironed on the interfacing to the collar, placed them right side to right side sewing a 1.5cm seam allowance. I had to cut the 1.5cm seam allowance in half to reduce the bulk, then I bagged out the collar. I then put the collar between the two collar stands and sewed a 1.5cm seam allowance.
- I then attached the collar to the shirt by sewing one side of the collar stand to the yolk and then folded over the other side of the collar and top stitched to keep everything tidy and a good finish.
- I sewed my pocket by sewing both pocket pieces together, making sure there is a small gap left so I could turn the pocket inside out. Cutting the seam allowance in half to reduce the bulk and then bagged out the pocket.
- I cut up the sleeve vent and two strips of bias of bias binding. I then attached the vent to the bias binding with a 1cm seam allowance. Cutting the seam allowance in half and ironed the bias and top stitched.
- I attached the sleeves to my shirt attaching the shoulder and over locking the edges. I attached the front and back , I did this by sewing down the side of the shirt and over locked.
- I ironed on my interfacing to my cuffs and folded a 1.5cm on the edge of my two cuffs, I then sewed a 1cm edge. I placed the top stitch of the cuff to the non stitched side with the right side to right side and a 1.5cm seam allowance and bagged out.
- Sewing the cuffs on I firstly ruffled the edges of the sleeves by sewing two lines one above and one below both 1.5cm. I then pulled the threads which created the ruffle.
- I then sewed the cuff to the sleeve with a 1.5cm seam allowance. i then tucked the ruffled edge into the cuff.
- I top stitched the ruffles I put inside the cuffs and unpicked the top row of stitching which created the ruffle.
- I have yet to put my buttons into my shirt, but this has to wait as the button machine isn't working to well at the moment.
Here is my finished shirt.
