Difficult Area On Cheyenne Dress

I have designed the Cheyenne inspired dress to have cut outs on the back with shapes taken from my print. I didn't really know the best method in how to create this look so I began by:

• Cutting out two medium size pieces of calico and the shapes which were taken from my print.
• I then hand stitched the two pieces of calico into a triangle shape.
• I then placed each of the shapes on to the calico. I made each shape go smaller so that they would fit into the triangle.
• I hand stitched around each edge of the shapes which touched the calico so they were all attached.
• This method didn't go to plan and didn't look like a professional finish. I am going to try out another method and see if I can create a neater finish which fits in with the concept of the Cheyenne dress.

Painting My Print On To Calico

 I drew my design onto two pieces of calico but only faintly, so that the pencil lines weren't obvious. I then used a small fine paint brush and fabric paint and applied it to the faint print that I had drawn out on the calico. I have found that painting the print onto the fabric is extremely time consuming and it takes a lot of attention to detail. However, it does look professional and creates the right kind of mood and feel for the concept I am trying to convey. I also embroidered areas of the print which I had painted on using a chain stitch. The chain stitch makes areas of the print more prominent and it creates a more effective look. These are the methods in which I will be applying my print to the fabric.

Toile Diary Dress Two

• Step One: I retraced the dress pattern which I had created for toile one.

• Step Two: I then took in the shoulder strap 1 cm and made the neckline on the front and back panels straighter so I took them down about 2 mm.

• Step Three: I then cut out the pattern for my new toile and pinned them down to calico but before I cut out the pattern pieces in fabric, I realised the shoulder pieces didn't match the back panels of my dress and so I added a piece of paper. This added just under half a cm to the shoulder attachment so it fitted properly.

• Step Four: I then cut out the pattern pieces in calico and made sure I cut out a 1 cm seam allowance, adding notches so I could match them up ready for manufacturing.

• Step Five: I then added darts to my toile before I went ahead with completing the rest of my toile.

• Step Six: After I added darts into my toile, I attached the front panels to the back panels using a 1 cm seam allowance and basic stitch.

• Step Seven: I only sewed half way up the back panels of the dress when as I was attaching the back panels together due to the fact I was adding a concealed zip.

• Step Eight: I then added the concealed zip using a concealed zipper foot. However, the zip wasn't put in properly as I had attached it the wrong way around and so I then unpicked the zip and attached the zip in the correct way.

 I found toile two very simple to pattern and make the changes to. The manufacturing process was straightforward also but I had problems with attaching the zip. I am pleased with the outcome of toile two and there is not many changes to be made other than it needing to be taken in a few cm around the waist and bust area.

Unit 120 Sampling Lined Patch Pocket, Trouser Pocket and Fly Zip

I struggled with creating the fly zip as I found it really fiddly and complicated. I had to have help from my tutor to complete it.

I found that the lined patch pocket was really easy to manufacture because there weren't really a lot of pattern pieces and it was really straightforward.

I also found this trouser pocket really easy to manufacture and once I understood in which order each part of the pocket was to be sewn on, it became really straightforward.

Unit 120 Sampling Curves, Points, Seams and Zips

The pointy seams were easy to manufacture. They were very straightforward as long as I kept them tight and used my notches which I had made the whole way around.

Sample of curved seams: These were easy as the seams were smooth. I cut notches to help the fabric curve and it was really easy to control.

The bias binding sample was difficult to sew as I have not really done it before. The satin bias was quite slippy. 

Sample of a jean seam: This was simple to sew as it was really straightforward and I had no problem with it.

This is a sample of bias binding on a curved seam. I found it difficult to sew because it was hard trying to keep the fabric and the binding straight.

Trouser Unit 120

Step 1: I traced around a basic trouser block.

Step 2: I then measured the length and width of my leg and took in the measurements of the basic trouser block.

Step 3: I then got my tutor to look and check I had made the correct measurements. When I knew the measurements were correct, I went ahead and cut the pattern pieces out.

Step 4: I then made sure I had added a 1cm seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

Step 5: I placed the pattern pieces onto the calico, pinned them and cut them out.

Step 6: I then began to manufacture the trousers. I started by sewing the front and back legs together. I then sewed the crotch and in the inside legs front and back together making sure I was sticking to my 1cm seam allowance and using a basic stitch.

Step 7: I then sewed half way up the back of the trousers but I didn't sew them completely because I added a concealed zip using a concealed zipper foot and basic stitch.

Step 8: I tried the trousers on but they didn't fit how I wanted them to so I took them in by 2cm on both sides using the overlocker machine. This was so they were a tighter, more flattering fit on my leg.

Step 9: I created a wing shape and traced it out so I had two but I made one slightly smaller. I then added six or so darts to each one so that when it was to be manufactured it would have enough structure to create the effect of wings which is what I wanted.

Step 10: I cut the wing patterns out but I cut them out twice so I had a front and back. I also cut x2 interfacing.

Step 11: I then ironed on the interfacing to the front pattern pieces and sewed in the darts. I then stitched on the back pieces but I used the ruffling effect so that it would fit to the front and it would help create the structure. I then attached them to the waist on my trousers.

Step 12: I finished the wings off with a retaining row on the trousers so it looked professionally presented and hemmed the trousers by 1cm.

Video concept

I created a video based on my concept of Hippies and American Indians. The video is telling the story of an American Indian going to the festival, Woodstock, in 1969 and mixing in with Hippies. The music fits in with the video as Jimmy Hendrix was big in the 60s and a lot of the Hippies listened to his music and he also played at Woodstock.

Shape Development

The shapes have been taken from my design which I will be using as my print. I like the shapes created on figures 6,7,8,10 and 11. They create nice forms and silhouettes and would make good starting points for dress designs.  I could design, in depth, shape developments to further my ideas.